Indagine su reazioni di sulfa-Michael di interesse in campo cosmetologico e sul trattamento ricostruttore del capello

The aim of this work was to evaluate the reactivity of cysteinyl residues that can be found in damaged human hair with Michael acceptors under mild conditions and to gain information on the hair modifications occurring in hair bleached and then repaired with some commercial formulations. In some patents, the use of some molecules effective for repairing damaged hair is claimed. Their structure is compatible with the occurrence of Michael addition reactions, and the need of more detailed studies about the reaction mechanism and the effect on human hair of commercial products containing hair rebuilding agents has inspired this study. First, the investigation was focused to find Michael acceptors alternative to those claimed by the examined patents. As model reaction N-acetyl-L-cysteine was chosen as nucleophilic agent and different electrophiles, such as quinone- and maleic acid- derivatives, as well as a,b-unsatured ketones and esters were used. Subsequently we investigated, through Raman/IR spectroscopy and electronic scanning microscopy (SEM), on the effect of hair treatment with Michael acceptors studied in the first part and also some commercial hair rebuilding formulations.